To many people Brazil consists only of Rio De Janeiro and São Paulo. Conflicting images persist of beautiful beaches, Carnaval, and vibrant music or the favelas of the poor and the impoverishment of the rural landless and indigenous. Throw into the mix a month of the World Cup simultaneously enjoyed by many and despised by some. This grand mixture reflects only partially the Brazil that I know and love.
As I write this I´m half-way through my 6 week stay in Fortaleza and Caucaia in the northeast of Brazil. I´ve been visiting my family (on my mother´s side) here for the past 25 years. I planned this trip to coincide with the World Cup since Fortaleza is one of the World Cup cities. There were times last year when it appeared that mass demonstrations and construction problems would prevent the Cup from being contested here, but loving it or hating it, the Cup is here and all the stadiums were completed.
Brazilians have been very conflicted and contradictory about the event…and they realize it. Most complain about the cost and corruption associated with it but then a game comes along and “Vamos Brasil!” Everyone believes that education, health care, infrastructure, and public safety are higher priorities but, then another contest and “Embora Brasil!:”
Last year´s demonstrations were led by striking workers, students, and many who opposed rising bus costs. Over 2 million people participated throughout the country. Unfortunately, ´´black bloc´´ anarchists and angry youth alienated many of the marchers through acts of violence. Protest here have been shadows of the past.
Many Brasilians continue to be upset at the costs of the games and think those other issues of safety, education, etc. should be the priorities, not grand stadiums. But even with their disgust they are so passionate about futebol that they root intensely for Brasil to win the Cup. After the World Cup they will again be in the midst of struggle and an election campaign where these priorities will be renewed.
Right now people are in high anxiety about the next match with Columbia. They’ll surely come back to reminders of what really matters after the hoopla.
Harry Adams is a workers rights advocate.
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